Heat Treatment

I use a custom 8-10 step heat treatment method, that features a grain refinement, a cryogenic treatment, optimal austenitizing and tempering temperatures. The result is a well-rounded knife with an excellent edge stability, great edge retention, 62-63RC hardness, and a keen edge.

I test each knife for hardness and for edge retention I periodically send my knives to be used in a professional kitchen. The feedback I get helps me to make adjustments in heat treatment to maximize performance.



S-Grind Geometry
This  is a complex grind, consisting of a hollow grind at  the top of the blade and convex grind at the bottom. A  knife in this geometry is light yet rigid at the spine, initiates cut and releases food exceptionally well and cuts  like no other. A perfect knife for root vegetables.  An absolute winner  geometry in my book.

Asymmetric Geometry
This is also a complex grind, consisting of a convex grind on the cutting side and an S-grind on the  opposite side.  A  knife in this geometry has more weight, releases food and initiates cut very well.  This geometry is  well suited for tasks where weight of the knife  could be used to help with a cut, such as a heavy prep work where a lot of  produce needs to  be cut in a short time.

Convex Grind
This a geometry is the most  common. If a convex knife ground thin behind the edge, the knife in this geometry is a solid performer,  though for a a better  food release, the degree of convexity needs to  be greater.

Single beveled (or Chisel ) Grind
A  typical grind in Japanese  sushi knives. The cutting side features  a  single beveled and  a back  side is hollow ground.  A knife in this geometry is suitable for slicing  proteins, both fish and animal (yanagi), filetting fish (deba) or working around poultry joints (honesuki or garasuki)

Single beveled grind is not  suitable for chef’s knives that are primarily used in Western cuisine. The knife will wedge and steer on dense foods.



A great steel and if heat treated properly (very important!) can reach hardness 61.5-62.5RC. Edge retention up to one month in a pro kitchen with a regular stropping on leather or felt and 1-3M diamond after a shift. I recommend this steel to anybody who wants a stainless steel knife. The catch here is heat treatment – that’s what makes this steel shine. Sharpens easily to razor-sharp.

Powder metallurgy, stainless steel with 13% chromium. This steel is unnamed, mainly for the fact that on paper it looks pretty ordinary, but with a proper heat treatment, this steel joints the rank of “super steels”. Sharpness-wise is same as AEB-L, but edge retention is considerably longer.

Similar to PM-1, but with longer edge retention. A winner if heat-treated properly.

My go-to carbon steel (1.5% chromium). I can’t say enough good things about this steel. A super steel that is pro kitchen friendly. A knife in 62.5RC hardness features a great balance of edge stability, sharpness and edge retention. Can’t beat that.

Semi stainless tool steel (5% chromium) that features exceptional edge retention thanks to vanadium in the mix. One of my pro chef customers reported that my A2 knife went for 7 months between sharpening, with just a basic touchups. This steel can sharpen on water stones, but diamond plates get it razor sharp in no time. Heat treating this steel takes a bit of know-how, but once you master the HT, the results are pretty amazing.

Carbon High Wear Resistant Steel
I really like this steel. It takes a great edge and holds it considerably longer than 52100, but I don’ t make many knives in it as it is very difficult to finish a blade by hand. I finish all my blades by hand.




My handles are modeled after traditional Japanese handles – octagonal and a modified D-shape.

Both Western and Japanese-influenced handles are made with professional users in mind, hence ergonomics plays a big role, to minimize fatigue from long hours of cutting.

I prefer to use wood to man-made materials, as wood offers the uniqueness of the grain figure, warmth and natural feel. I use natural woods that are stable – tropical hardwoods, desert woods and I also use stabilized (resin infused) wood. Stabilizing minimizes movement of the wood and allows to use woods that are not suitable for handle material otherwise.